Saturday, July 1, 2017

Machali - Lady of the Lakes

RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK

Legendary people are not born Legends, they achieve it by the events that unfold in their lives. As the cards has it, even some Tigers become Legendary, by the turn of events that their life showers them with. The story I am about to narrate is of one such tiger... infact it's a Tigress who has reached the pinnacle of stardom through her extraordinary animated lifetime in the tiger paradise, Ranthambore.

She is ...

Machali (T16)


Known by many names "Lady of the Lakes", "Queen mother of Tigers", "Tigress queen of Ranthambore", "Crocodile killer", she changed the landscape of tiger conservation in India. She is rightfully considered the "most photographed Tigress in the wild", "the longest lived known wild tiger in the world" and even she is the only tiger in the world to have a postal stamp of her own, issued by government of India in 2013. She was also awarded with "Lifetime Achievement Award" by Travel operators for Tiger due to her contribution to wildlife conservation and tourism enrichment. It is reported that Indian Tourism Department earned about 1 Crore rupees from tourist visiting for Machali only. 


Early Life

Identification marks of Machali
Her legendary journey began in May, 1996 when she was born as a part of litter of three female cubs to her mother "Machali I", who had a fish like marking on her left part of the face. Machali derived her name from her mother, inheriting some characters. She was easily identified by a fish like mark above her left brow and a fork marking on her left lower cheek. 
She was the dominant female of her lot and quickly took to hunt at an early age of eighteen months. Soon after in the summers of 1999 in a classic battle in the ruins of Rajbagh, she took over a part of her mother's territory (Zone 5) around the three lakes near the Raj Bagh ruins and the Ranthambore fort... thus entitled "Lady of the Lakes". She lost her mother due to poaching. At that point of time Ranthambore was facing a tiger crisis with only 15-20 surviving tigers in the park. In the years that followed Machali's four successful  litters supplemented 9 tigers to the park. And by the end of 2014 there were well over 50 tigers in the Ranthanmbore. Her lineage still lives on through her daughters of last litter "Satra/Sundari - T17" and "Unnis/Krishna - T19".
Macahli stalking her prey


Machali's Reign

Machali dominantly ruled as the "Queen of Ranthambore" for about 10 years. One of the longest reigns of any known tigers. In a duration of seven years (1999-2006), she had four successful litters. Matriarch of the Park, Machali bore her first litter in 1999 of two cubs "Slant ear" and "Broken Tail", fathered by the majestic male "Bamboo Ram". 
Machali with cubs "Broken tail" and "Slant ear"
It was a magical time in Machali's life. By 1999 she was already 3 years old, had a territory of  her own and ready to give rise to a new generation of tigers. One evening mating calls of Machali, echoed around the Palace ruins and the valley... low moaning roars. After a brief moment of time, responding calls were heard from distance. And from the towering hillocks emerged a handsome tiger, it was "Bamboo Ram". He came down, meeting Machali on the road near the Malik talao. They both got together very well, rubbing flanks and brushing faces. They mated for hours together with intervals of lazy lying around. Tigers' mating can be a little aggressive. Females take initiative falling to the ground in a submissive posture inviting the male. The mating session can occur for days, upto fifty short bursts of copulation during that time. Few months after the cubs were born "Bamboo Ram" succumbed to diseases and old age.
Courting pair, Machali and Bamboo Ram
His territory was taken over by another strong male "Nick ear". This male is assumed to have fathered the second litter of Machali's cubs, "Jhumri" and "Jhumaroo".
Machali bore a litter of two cubs in March, 2005 from the "Male X", the male cub being brave was named "Bahadur" and the shy female was named "Sharmeele". Later these two cubs were renamed "Bunty" and "Bubbly", entitled over famous characters of a lastest hit hindi movie. Years of glorious days for Machali kept going as she reigned over her Ranthambore kingdom with a golden sceptre. She raised all her cubs successfully but none of them dared to claim her territory. It all changed with her last litter from "Male X"... she gave birth to three beautiful female cubs, "Satra/Sundari - T17", "Athra - T18" and "Unnis/Krishna - T19".

Machali with cubs -  Satra(T17),  Atra(T18) and  Unnis (T19) 

The Crocodile Killer

In the hot afternoon of June 27th, 2003 an incident changed the law of jungle as we know it. Ranthambore witnessed an epic clash of two apex predators of their respective ecosystems. The moment was captured in camera and first ever such documented incident. Crocodiles (Indian Mugger) have co-existed in the lakes of Ranthambore alongside Tigers for ages. but never did these two behemoths cross each others path, tolerating and respecting either's presence. On this specific day it finally happened... battle of the beasts.

Machali battling the Mugger crocodile
Machali has always been known for her bold and protective nature. She defended her territory with the fury of a raging Queen, no tiger in the park ever dared to claim her domain. She fought viciously and cared for her cubs with delicate femininity. That summer had been very dry and long, water pools had almost been reduced to puddles. Conflicts between animals had been on the rise around the water sources.
Sun was taking a detour to the horizon in the west as Macahli patrolled her territory near the lake area. Suddenly she halted, ears strained and eyes fixed on something on the water's edge. It's unclear what made her to take such a decision. Jolting through the bushes she pounced on a 14 feet long crocodile. The next thing that came into view was the mugger desperately trying to get back into the water and Machali fiercely dragging it away with her teeth firmly grasping it's neck. Both the beasts extremely strong battled to take control of one another. Macahli's teeth sinking deeper with every move as the mugger kept twisting and turning, slashing it's tail around.
Scars of the battle - Machali lost two Canines
It all happened in broad daylight and some lucky Safari jeeps were around to witness this extraordinary event. In front of their very eyes, the tigress was taking on a large Croc., A sight that will be imprinted in their memories for a lifetime. The battle raged on for hours and finally Machali emerged victorious, banishing and killing the Crocodile.

This victory had come at a price, she lost two of her canine teeth... the most prized possession of a tiger's arsenal. This event sky rocketed the stardom of Machali. In the up coming years the park was flooded by tourists who came just to have a glance of the "Crocodile killer". Machali immortalized her name in the pages of history.    


Demise of the Reign

By 2008, Machali was starting to feel the toll of old age. She was still reigning the lake territory but with four canines gone and fading physical strength climax of her dominance was inevitable. By the end of the year two of her cubs were relocated to Sariska Tiger reserve in an effort to boost tiger population in other parks as well. The two tigers in subsequent years successfully reproduced to aid tiger conservation. The only left off spring Satra (T17) by the end of 2008 had already grown up to be a formidable tigress. For the first time in a decade someone was up to challenge Machali in her own turf. Satra/ Sundari was well aware of her mother's condition and deep in her heart she had already made up her decision to rule her mother's prized land.
Satra facing Machali in her decisive battle
In a summer afternoon, 2009 Machali was causally lying near the ruins of Rajbagh fort when Satra sneaked up to to her. Machali had no clue of what was coming. Roaring menacingly Satra charged at Machali, pinning her to the ground. Machali had nothing left in her to resist.  In a short but decisive battle Satra dethroned her mother and banished Machali to the outskirts of her kingdom, Lakarda area of the park. The natural order of forest law prevails... Machali was vanquished by her daughter as she had her mother a decade ago.

Machali was forced out of her territory ... Kingdom gone, old age dawning and strength abandoned all Machali could do was bask in her past glory for the days that remained. A magnificent rule had come to an end.
Vanquished Machali taking refuge near a water hole 

Dusk of Machali's Life 

Life was harsh for Machali in the after days. But the warrior in her did not quit, against all odds she lived long to become the oldest tiger to survive in the wild. She kept tricking death time and time again. In a puzzling incident, on 9th January, 2014 the matriarch of Ranthambore went missing from Zone 5. The forest officials, wildlife experts and media, all went buzzing on her disappearance.  All efforts for her search proved futile. She had vanished without a trace, no pug marks, no clue, no roar... nothing at all. Speculations were made of her falling victim to poaching, or may be killed by another tiger or even death of natural causes in any remote location. Miraculously after 25 days of extensive search, patrolling team headed by Forest officer Daulat Singh found Machali lurking around Kachidagarh post. Not only did Machali survive but also had not lost her hunting skills to old age as she was found relishing a kill a few days later. She kept surprising everyone in her odd old days as well. On one occasion, she was seen emerging from a hotel room in Sawai Madhopur. She was trying to rejoice the luxuries of human lifestyle it seems. Exuberant spirit of the tigress reflected in her attitude even at this stage of her life. Alas! even she knew her days were numbered. 
Machali with a Cataract in left eye
With partial vision due to a cataract in her left eye and all the canine withered she had reduced to just a fringe of demeanor of what she once was. With time her health deteriorated, and Park officials grew concerned. At a decisive juncture, it was decided that she should be supplemented with food as she was unable to hunt anymore. This arose questions, the wildlife experts and ecologists protesting against it. It was like manhandling natural fate of wild animals.



Machali's Lifeless body
Paying no heed to the protests, park officials favored their beloved Machali. Mr. Mohan Singh, a forest guard was appointed to keep track of Machali. Calling Machali for her food was an art which he had developed as a mode of communication. And to everyone's surprise she would respond to his calls. She spent her last days in  Ammaghati area of the park's periphery, away from all the glitz and glamour of Ranthambore National park.  August of 2016, marked the sunset of Machali's life. She had not been eating anymore, just water would go down her throat. Efforts to feed her went in vain. She was restricted to a small pool of water, with no strength left in her to move anymore. Life was slipping away from her, and she just waited calmly for death to embrace her. It was on 18th August, 2016 when she breathed her last.

She moved on to happy hunting grounds in the heavens leaving the mortal world behind.

Machali's final journey

With all the honor her body was carried on shoulders of the forest staff and guards.... eyes that once bedazzled at her sight were moist on that day. An out-pour of emotions converged at Ranthambore on this fateful day. People gathered in hundreds to have a glance of the majestic Tigress one last time.  The park and her fans worldwide bid adieu to their beloved tigress "Machali". She was offered to flames with hindu rituals at the Ammaghati check-post, which was her last abode.

A magnificent journey of a Tigress, who redefined the laws of nature and ruled millions of hearts all over the world had came to an end. But wherever she goes, IMMORTALITY will follow...

In the loving memory of MACHALI (1996-2016)

Post Script

Last few days I have been restless, this story has mesmerized and captivated me. With every part of Machali's life I unfold, I fall in love with her again and again. I never had the privilege to see her, before this article she was just any other tiger for me... but it all changed. Somewhere deep within my soul I feel a part of me is gone with her. It feels like she was one whom I knew closely, different in form and life but still... mine somehow. I felt the pain as she would have on loosing her territory, I was overjoyed when I put down the story of the reappearance after long time, I chuckled on the moment when she visited humans...And I did cry when I informed you of how one day she left us. Tigers are not just tigers for me anymore...They are family. I may not have seen them but yes a fragment of them runs in me now. This story has brought meaning to my life... and till my last breath I vow to try and protect these majestic ones through my words and actions. 

Thank you Machali. I owe you.